Maris explanation applies quite well to my case. Indeed, it is amazingly
simple to get good results tweaking the opacity slide in the "filter layer"
(in mode color, as Robert Wright pointed) -- very easy corrections with
aditional levels and saturation (sometimes) layers gave good results with
all the collection (about 40 recoverable slides). Happily, in ONE of them I
had a zone that should be white (better, gray) -- perhaeps a good indication
to take also a photo from a reference card when shooting under difficult
ilumination conditions (or the wrong film... ), a thing that I didn't ...
Thanks for all the inputs, I learned interesting things.
Mario Teixeira
mjteixeira@yahoo.com
"Maris V. Lidaka, Sr." <mlidaka@ameritech.net> wrote:
| If using Photoshop you could click with the White eyedropper, the Gray
(pick your own gray numbers for each image) and the Black and you should
have basic adjustments. But this will not work 100% of the time because
sometimes Curves will be necessary - and very intricate Curves - so the
filter set may well be more useful. Different objects in the image may have
differing reactions to the fluorescent lighting - some may be fairly OK and
others way off.
|
| Maris
|
| ----- Original Message -----
| From: "Arthur Entlich" <artistic@ampsc.com>
|
| Thanks for the info on your approach to correcting fluorescent lighting.
|
| If you were not interested in having a "filter set" wouldn't just
| clicking with the clear eyedropper in levels at the same (near white)
| location do a basic adjustment?
|
| Art
|
| Mário Teixeira wrote:
|
| > Thanks Art and all the others that helped. In fact, trying to correct
| with
| > levels in PS was beeing truely difficult -- I don't remember very
| well the
| > true color, reproductions in books that I have doesn't seem very
| "true" and
>>>>>>>>>
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