[filmscanners] Re: Intentional clipping

["Tony Terlecki" <ajt@mrps.demon.co.uk>]

On Wed, Jan 29, 2003 at 04:39:39PM +0100, Tomek Zakrzewski wrote:
> Now that I have good software that prevents highlights from clipping
> (VueScan and NikonScan) I
> wonder in what circumstances should I intentionally clip some highlights.
> Since I'm no expert in professional printing, I've no idea which parts of
> image look good
> when they are 255 white (apart from reflections).
> For example clouds. When I adjust levels in Photoshop (Alt depressed),
> should I clip them when they start being indiciated in blue or clip them
> until they appear white or don't clip at all?
> What are other circumstances in which clipped highlights look natural and
> good in print?
> And what about shadows? Do I always should leave the left (shadow) side
> unclipped? What area should be clipped to black?
> Any examples of highlights and shadows clipping?
>

My comments here are directed more towards B&W film...

My own personal preference is not to clip highlights other than specular.
A common area that is often at the point of being blown out is sky. While is
is tempting to clip pixels there you will find if you ever want to burn in the
sky later that there is no grain texture left because of the clipping so any
burning in will simply result in a featureless grey.

Shadows are a different matter - there I clip any shadows that don't contain
detail that is significant to the image. Personally I think that many people set
their black point far too conservatively, often at the very first black
pixel from the scan. What this often does is reduce the overall contrast of
an image to the point where the image loses some impact. Yes contrast can be
brought back with a curves adjustment but is every single part of that
shadow detail necessary to the image? If not then be ruthless and get rid of
it.

While scanning can now capture the huge range of scene brightness
recorded on film (10-12 stops easily on B&W film) you should always remember
that you still have to print onto paper which has a far more limited brightness
range. The more you try and keep from the negative the more you have to 
sacrifice
in contrast and often impact in the print (unless of course you embark upon
extensive dodging and burning).

Lots of generalisations there I know but hopefully some of it you might
find useful.


--
Tony Terlecki
ajt@mrps.demon.co.uk

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