Hi Jack,
Without arguing the points you make, most of us who responded that Digital
Ice does not work well with Kodachromes did qualify our statements and
avoided making any absolute statements. However, the real question (even if
Digital Ice works on many Kodachromes), given the original poster's message
in which he said he wanted to batch process around a thousand or so
Kodachromes with little description as to the colors on those slides or the
evenness of quality of those slides, is will your workflow as described be
an efficient route to go for large numbers of slides as opposed to a few at
a time. I would think that (a) scanning 1000 slides with Digital Ice would
take quite a bit of time in itself and (b) needing to scan some twice in
addition to working on them in Photoshop could make the project a life-long
endeavor.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: filmscanners_owner@halftone.co.uk
> [mailto:filmscanners_owner@halftone.co.uk] On Behalf Of Jack Phipps
> Sent: Friday, July 22, 2005 12:58 PM
> To: laurie@advancenet.net
> Subject: [filmscanners] Re: 'Cheap' film scanner recommendations
>
> Actually, Digital ICE works quite well with most Kodachrome film.
> There are certain images that are troublesome. Certain
> batches of film with a lot of cyan are the most serious
> cuprites. For example I scanned an image of a man wearing a
> dark navy colored cap. Of course there was a high density of
> cyan in the cap. Unfortunately the cap had yellow lettering
> on it. The yellow lettering was the only part of the image
> that was affected when correcting the image using the
> infrared defect map. It was also unfortunate that the image
> was covered with many fine scratches and other very visible
> surface defects. The fastest way to solve the problem was to
> scan the image twice and "bring back" the lettering on the
> cap with a layer mask in an image editor. The lettering on
> the cap was an important part of the image otherwise I would
> have left it alone.
>
> My workflow is to scan Kodachrome with Digital ICE on. If I
> notice artifacts around high densities of cyan, rescan with
> Digital ICE off.
> If there are a lot of defects, I combine the two (or I go
> down the hall and use a Nikon 9000). If there is any fading
> or color imbalance, then I apply Digital ROC.
>
> The other choice is to purchase a new Nikon 9000 that does
> scan Kodachrome quite effectively. However, I don't think
> that the Nikon 9000 meets the requirement of inexpensive. The
> Nikon 5000 and the Nikon V also perform better with
> Kodachrome than the older models but not as well at the 9000.
>
> Jack Phipps
> Kodak's Austin Development Center
> Formerly, Applied Science Fiction
>
> On 7/22/05, chris@ion-dreams.com <chris@ion-dreams.com> wrote:
> > > >My only suggestion is that whatever you do, you should
> do it with
> > > >Digital ICE enabled. You will want to use the scans as
> is and not
> > > >screw around trying to remove dust from the images (other
> > > than a couple
> > > >blasts from your Dust Off before you scan).
> > > >
> > > >
> > > Except that theoretically Digital ICE doesn't work with
> Kodachrome
> > > (although some have reported it working ). Image apparently not
> > > fully transparent in the IR channel.
> >
> > Polaroid Dust & Scratch Removal.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
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