Has anyone ever used a product called "ROR'. At one time this was
considered an excellent optics cleaner.
On Aug 6, 2005, at 6:15 PM, James L. Sims wrote:
> The denatured alcohol I use is an industrial grade that does not have
> the additives found in rubbing alcohol. besides staying away from
> substances that will damage coatings (and magnesium fluoride is
> slightly
> water soluble) the cleaner must not leave residue and should evaporate
> quickly.
>
> Jim.
>
> lists wrote:
>
>> Denatured alcohol often has gunk in it to prevent your skin from
>> drying.
>> Wintergreen oil is common. They also denature it with wood alcohol,
>> which I don't think is a problem for glass (though quite toxic for
>> humans).
>>
>> The electronics grade alcohol I use is PureTronics Techincal Grade
>> isopropyl. The claim is it is 99.9 percent pure. $7 for 32 oz.
>>
>> It's not on their website. Stock number 3125.
>>
>> I sppose if you have access to it, "reagent grade" isopropal would be
>> the best. What you want to avoid is the 70% pure junk.
>>
>> For the car windows, I use the cheaper stuff. You should be able to
>> find
>> 99% pure alcohol [anhydrous] About $1 for 16oz. Brite-Life is a common
>> brand.
>>
>> The use of cotton balls is mostly from the cleaning instructions of
>> filters. I'm not sure why they prefer cotton balls to lens cleaning
>> tissue. However, when on the road, you can get cotton balls and the
>> nearly pure 99% alcohol at any drug store, rather than having to track
>> down a photo store.
>>
>> I find the cushioning of cotton balls tends to be gentler on the
>> glass.
>>
>> While we are at it, some say canned air can damage glass. I do know
>> that
>> if you don't hold the can perfectly level, refrigerant comes out.
>> There
>> is also talk of thermal shock. I use a scuba tank for my canned air,
>> so
>> I don't know if current genneration canned air products have this
>> problem. I have a Leland CO2 duster as well, but don't use it much as
>> it
>> surely puts out cold air.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Laurie Solomon wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>> Windex contains ammonia which can etch coatings. Never use it
>>>> on optics.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> I assumed as much but was not sure, which is why I made a point of
>>> articulating my suggestions the way I did and restricting my
>>> suggestion of
>>> Windex's to the plate glass bed of the scanner if it were a flatbed
>>> scanner,
>>> saying to be careful not to let any of it run off the glass into the
>>> innards
>>> of the scanner, and following it with the statement:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>> As for the other parts, you need to be careful not to scratch or
>>>>> leave
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>> lint on the
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>> surfaces of the optics and mirror. I suspect that one would also
>>>>> need to
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>> be careful
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>> about what solutions one uses to make sure that they do not leave
>>>>> their
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>> own film residue
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>> over the optics and mirror, don't contain anything that will
>>>>> deteriorate
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>> the internal
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>> parts, and do not damage the electronic components and elements.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> Electronics grade alcohol is generally accepted as best for
>>>> optics.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> I am unfamiliar with electronics grade alcohol; how does it differ
>>> from
>>> denatured alcohol? I understand why one might not want to use
>>> rubbing
>>> alcohol' but is denatured alcohol the same as electronic grade?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> I use cottonballs rather than cloth.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> I suppose they could work just as well as long as they do not leave
>>> behind
>>> any form of lint or cotton strings or dust.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: filmscanners_owner@halftone.co.uk
>>>> [mailto:filmscanners_owner@halftone.co.uk] On Behalf Of lists
>>>> Sent: Saturday, August 06, 2005 12:43 PM
>>>> To: laurie@advancenet.net
>>>> Subject: [filmscanners] Re: HP PhotsSmart - questions
>>>>
>>>> Windex contains amonia which can etch coatings. Never use it
>>>> on optics.
>>>> Electronics grade alcohol is generally accepted as best for
>>>> optics. I use cottonballs rather than cloth.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Laurie Solomon wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> I do not have answers to the question of cleaning the
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> internal optics,
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> mirror, or sensors; nor do I have an answer to why 150 dpi appears
>>>>> sharper than 300 dpi when scanning a 3 x 5 color print. I
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> take it that
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> this is a flatbed scanner.
>>>>>
>>>>> I would suggest the obvious with respect to cleaning. You
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> should start
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> by cleaning the glass bed with a soft lintless cloth and a little
>>>>> Windex, being careful not to let any of the liquid run off the
>>>>> glass
>>>>> and into the internal areas of the scanner. As for the other
>>>>> parts,
>>>>> you need to be careful not to scratch or leave lint on the
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> surfaces of
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> the optics and mirror. I suspect that one would also need to be
>>>>> careful about what solutions one uses to make sure that they do not
>>>>> leave their own film residue over the optics and mirror,
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> don't contain
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> anything that will deteriorate the internal parts, and do not
>>>>> damage
>>>>> the electronic components and elements.
>>>>>
>>>>> As for the question of " why 150 dpi appears sharper than
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> 300 dpi when
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> scanning a 3 x 5 color print," you did not tell us if the result
>>>>> you
>>>>> speak of was on the monitor or on a hard copy print ( and if the
>>>>> latter, what type of print laser, inkjet, etc.) The answer to this
>>>>> could furnish some indications of the reasons for this.
>>>>>
>>>>> ----Original Message----
>>>>> From: filmscanners_owner@halftone.co.uk
>>>>> [mailto:filmscanners_owner@halftone.co.uk] On Behalf Of
>>>>> rkoziol3@comcast.net
>>>>> Sent: Saturday, August 06, 2005 8:37 AM
>>>>> To: laurie@advancenet.net
>>>>> Subject: [filmscanners] HP PhotsSmart - questions
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> Hi,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Been reading the posts here for quite some time. Just got into
>>>>>> scanning. In fact the recent thread on Cheap Film Scanners
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>> woke me up
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>> :-) I have one that's at the bottom of that heap. It's HP
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>> PhotoSmart
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>> vintage 1997. SCSI interface, which makes it S10 I guess.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I'm using the current version of HP software from their
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>> Support site.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>> Did a calibrate with a white piece of paper (the card is gone).
>>>>>> The
>>>>>> scanner was donated by a friend.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Now the question. I started with a simple color print
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>> (3x5) scan and
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>> noticed that setting it to 150dpi gives a "sharper"
>>>>>> result than 300dpi.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Can that be explained in any way? Saved as bmp and jpg,
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>> same results.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>> Secondly, should I take the scanner apart and attempt to clean any
>>>>>> optical components? I'm quite handy with small tools :-) After
>>>>>> sitting for so many years and some usage by the previous owner, it
>>>>>> must have some film whatever the optical pickup is.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Regards,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Rich Koziol
>>>>>>
>>>>>> --------------------------------------------------------------
>>>>>> --------------------------
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>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>> appropriate) in
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>> the message title or body
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> --------------------------------------------------------------
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>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
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