My choice was
Nikon 8000ED
Vuescan Software (For sure not Nikon software)
www.hamrick.com 40$ Remarkable software!
Film for B/W - Fuji Reala 100 ASA Pro (color) -
converted
in chanelmixer of Photoshop to B/W.
Very wide EV latitude - a bit "flat" but I take
advantage of that changing in channeelmixer (insted of
using filter on the shooting spot) too boost use hue,
saturatin and of cause brightness/contrast.
If doing a picture over 60x60 cms - Use zone system
carefully and use a chrome-film - grain is less there.
Convert to B/W in. photoshop. But object must be in
proper light as EV latitude for chromes are less.
But when light AND a scilled photographer get *that*
*light* and can use it - it's outstanding - however
the chrome has to be able to be "shoot" and developed
so it contains all the subtile shadows - a hard task!
Zone sytem (Anselm Adams - but modifyied to "digital"
post prossesing in Photoshop)
My Camera is for MF Hasselblade only!!!!
I use Minolta Multi Pro - for 35 mm it has an true
4800 dpi resulution for 35 mm and 3200 dpi for MF.
(Here also the rule is, when going negatives - color
and B/W - Vuescan at http://www.hamrick.com )
For those going chromes - this is also a remarkable
scanner!
Bu you did ask for true 4000 dpi!
Fiat Lux! (Let there be light!)
and
Best Regards
Bo Wrangborg
Moderator of "multipro" at Yahoo groups
--- Francoise Frigola <franou@pe.net> wrote:
> Hi,
>
> A client of mine, a professional photographer is
> looking to switching to
> digital.
>
> He mainly shoots B/W with Hasselblad cameras, only
> occasionally 35mm.
>
> What would you recommend in the 4000 dip range?
> Best shadow/highlight scans?
>
> Do any or all of these handle 2 1/4 film?
> - Nikon SuperCoolScann 8000ED
> - Polaroid PrintScan 120
> - Minolta DiMAGE Scan Multi Pro 4800dpi
>
> Thanks,
>
> Francoise Frigola
>
> Original Inkjet Prints in Multiple ~ Sculpture
> http://www.pe.net/~franou/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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